You can learn Lunéville embroidery at home with no experience at all. All you need is a Lunéville hook, a frame, sheer fabric such as silk organza, thread, and pre-strung sequins and beads. Most beginners make their first neat chain stitch in an afternoon, and a finished sequin motif within a few weeks of practice.
What do you need to start?
- A Lunéville hook with a fine needle (No. 70 is ideal for beginners on organza)
- A frame that holds the fabric drum-tight, with a table clamp so both hands are free (see all frames and tools)
- Silk organza, sheer enough to see the pattern through
- Thread: fine French gloving thread works beautifully
- Pre-strung sequins and beads, sold on threads called hanks
- A design and clear lessons to follow
You can buy each of these separately, or get everything at once in our Atelier Box, one A5 box made in London: the hook with a Schmetz No. 70 needle, a 9 × 9 inch frame with table clamp, silk organza, French gloving thread, French sequins and Czech beads, a practice pattern and lifetime access to the online course.
The star of it all: the Lunéville hook
Everything starts with the hook. A fine needle with a tiny hook at the tip sits in a turned wooden handle, held by a brass collar and thumbscrew so you can change the needle and turn the hook to face your work. Hold it like a pen, upright above the frame, and it does the rest.
How do you learn it, step by step?
- Stretch the organza on the frame until it is taut like a drum.
- Transfer the pattern onto the back of the fabric, because Lunéville is worked from the wrong side.
- Make your first chain stitch: push the hook through, catch the thread underneath and pull up a loop.
- Add sequins and beads by sliding one up against the fabric before each stitch.
- Finish your first motif and turn the frame over to see the front for the first time.
The online course shows every one of these steps on video, at your own pace. If you get stuck, you send a photo of your work and get a personal answer from our atelier.
What can you make once you know it?
The same chain stitch is used on haute couture gowns, so the possibilities are endless: sequin flowers and leaves, beaded motifs for collars and tops, brooches, and embellishments for your own clothes. When you are ready for a real design, our Design Packs give you a vintage pattern with all its materials.
Frequently asked questions
Can a complete beginner learn Lunéville embroidery?
Yes. The technique looks difficult, but it is one repeated movement. The course starts from stretching the fabric and builds up to your first finished motif.
How long does it take to learn?
Your first chain stitch takes an afternoon. Even tension and smooth sequin lines come with a few weeks of regular practice.
Is it the same as tambour embroidery?
Yes, the stitch is the same. Lunéville is the French couture name, usually used for work with beads and sequins on a straight frame. You can read more in our short history of Lunéville embroidery.
Do I need a special frame?
You need a frame that keeps the fabric very tight and leaves both hands free, which is why the Atelier Box includes a frame with a table clamp.
Do you ship outside the UK?
Yes, the Atelier Box ships from London worldwide, and the online course works wherever you are.